Neon Cowboy Roadhouse and Hot Springs (formery Hunter Hot Springs) in Lakeview, Oregon.

HOT SPRINGS!!! Lake County! STARS INFINITY!!!

Getting back to my roots- which feel best boiling in a spring of water straight from the ground. I love the coast, that is no secret- but what I’ve kept under wraps for years are the places I go to escape. The Hot Springs of SouthEast Oregon. They are like a magnet to my soul- offering rest, respite, introspection- and stars. ALL the stars.

Early morning at the Neon Cowboy hot springs

I love lake county, I first started to steal down this way on my 27th birthday- my mom had actually read about the hot springs in a magazine in the early 2000’s, she told me about it for years. I just happened to make it down that way before she could. She didn’t like that I’d spend the next ten years driving there no less than every 90 days. I was hooked immediately. Sorry mom, didn’t mean to co opt your thunder.

The wide open spaces set me alive, the impossible sunsets followed by the coldest nights interrupted by shooting stars and coyotes. You can bump around on roads that take you to ancient caves where ancient corporalite was found (that’s fossilized poo), marking the oldest known evidence of humans in the Northern United States.

I can go on about the history of these valleys, the ridge, the fire lookouts, mosquitos and wildlife for days. I’ll write another post- because there is only one thing that we need to discuss this day:

The Neon Cowboy RoadHouse and Hot Springs.

Formerly known as ‘Hunter Hot Springs’ in case you’ve heard tale of this geothermal getaway.

I heard of this little spring in a “pool” in Lakeview sometime around 2012. I’d not been through Lakeview that I remembered at the time… except as I was learning to drive on a family road trip to Reno circa 2001. I think my parents had stopped at the Safeway and I hid in the car, enjoying my five minutes of teenage peace away from them!

Now Lakeview- is much more than an angsty teen pitstop, it's known as “The Tallest Town in Oregon” based upon its elevation of 4,800 feet. The town has a population of about 2,400 residents and many are the direct lineage of cowboys and timbermen, of which the town was built.

Lakeview even has a Burger Queen! Yes, Queen!

It is the hub of the outback and basically the only place to grab some grub (save the Pioneer Saloon up in Paisley) for miles around. There IS a Safeway AND a Burger Queen! I can also attest that there are several more places worthy to warm your hide around town as well as some really cool shops, a museum, and a very awesome Round Up Day weekend.

The reason I was in town though- was to set foot in the newly spruced up Neon Cowboy Roadhouse, to stay the night and soak in the springs. I’d had my eye on the springs for a while, like I said- since about 2012. It’s changed hands since then and has been in the process of becoming “New again” which is no easy task when a resort is 100 years old- or will be, next year.

I can tell you- the progress I’ve seen on this property since I first came in is amazing! As you roll in you are greeted by “Old Perpetual” which is the only geyser in the Pacific Northwest. At one time it reliably erupted every 90 seconds, earning its moniker. However, time has changed the beat and that’s another story to be told ... .but it’s still going off, about every 4 minutes currently.

The sunrise at The Neon Cowboy Roadhouse

Past Old Perpetual is a wooden lodge with a large and inviting chimney, a cozy row of green doored guest rooms, market lights and a ramp leading inside. There is a platform built just for firepits coming Summer 2025. The inside is like no other place I’ve seen except for on Turner Classic movie sets- the kind with leading names like “Rio, Doc and Rooster” if you get my drift.

Stepping into the lounge a shining tiled bar stands to one wall, providing any libation you could dream up, with plenty of seats stacked beneath an American Flag. Each corner has a neon sign a-buzz, lighting up vintage posters featuring 70’s cowgirl pinups hawking beer and steaks.

The atmosphere is cozy yet electric, sleepy but inspiring. It feels comfortable and intimate when you have it to yourself and alive and vibrant when the house is full for live music on a Saturday.

The is the place to be. I want that velvet couch!

The game room is certainly my favorite room in the house, adorned with a pink velvet chaise lounge, ornate crystal chandeliers, knotty blue pine pillars, and an impressive array of taxidermied critters. It is the perfect place to impress a gambler or two with a hidden set of dart skills, or perhaps shuffleboard is more your thing. Stick around long enough and you might try your hand at a game of giant chess. Whatever you fancy, this room will help to while away the time when you are not doing what I love best:

Dolly even made an appearance! Jingle Jingle

Soaking!

Mud on the crocs, feeling fine by the hot springs

The pool here is modest but magical. It’s tucked behind the main lodge and looks out onto sage, golden hills and a blue sky. There are stairs to get in and a sloping bottom that goes from about 2 feet deep to just above my chest, 4 feet high. The water was a piping 104 degrees, cascading from a stack of rocks- piped in from the ground below. This is as close to a natural spring as you get before rules, regulations, and the slick cover of overproduction dulls it’s organic glory.

One of my favorite hot springs in Oregon

If you are familiar with hot springs of this kind- they do have a smell, proof of their rich mineral content. Sort of like sulfur and cattle and to me it is a lovely thing! My brain knows it as the aroma of stress relief.

Many have believed the springs to have healing properties, myself included. Even if the effects are only psychosomatic they are lasting- and addictive. I can only give my testimony- that when I first started visiting another hot spring nearby I started to have gallbladder attacks shortly after soaking. Something in the water caused the stones to pass. I eventually had my gallbladder removed but always wondered what about soaking facilitated the removal of these stones- and what else could this water initiate in the body.

I’ve flocked to hot water at so many major times in my life, to cleanse my mind and body. Birthdays, New Years, the passing of my beloved Chihuahua Bogart, too soothe grief and spend time in quiet self reflection. Each spring has its own smell, its own FEEL to it, and its own way of changing how I think about the problems I so (graciously) bring into the water with me. The water at Neon Cowboy has always left my skin softer than before, I can only guess it must have a high silica percentage. You know, silica does produce opals…and while I can’t tell you where I once found an opal in this desert- I can point you to where there are suntones, not far from Lakeview.

Some hot springs tangle my hair, not this one. Some hot springs are crowded, not this one (not yet, anyway….though the point of my visit was to perhaps help spread the word a little). I have only one picture from my previous visits, as it’s a bit taboo to bring a cell phone in or near such a sacred place of solace. I only brought my camera this time because I was asked to- and so I crept around finding time when no one else might be around. If you had told me 12 years ago this would be my job I’d have not believed it possible ... .though I did wish it upon every shooting star I ever saw in Lake County, which was more than a triple dozen over time. Here I am. Just to once again give testimony to the magic of manifestation in places such as these, a little Wild Oregon Girl secret.

After such a soak, such a time gazing into time and melting away from the beast I call social media (my bane and my bread, alas) I was so happy to retire to our little hidden oasis from it all- Room 45! This is the best room on the property- as it has the cutest elements so if you can request any room, room 45 is what you want.

The room is simple, clean and comfy. There is a couch for sitting, a table to eat, a LARGE tv with streaming services, a fridge, electric kettle, and teapot. This room had a very nice King bed and big pillows, my favorite. A large tiled shower and bathroom.

We spent the day curled up watching country western classics!

I loved the ‘Howdy’ sign and collection of books in our room. Considering the pace of the average December, I decided to do something I don’t usually do- bring a big collection of snacks and not leave the room once except to soak and visit the lounge; which was featuring live music on Saturday night.

I’ve seen two acts in the lounge here now and both were fabulous and a lot of fun. The first was a man who played didgeridoo back in 2022 and it was a hoot! In fact, he inspired me to write a fair bit of cowboy poetry on our ride home through the valley. This week's band was local from Lakeview- Tall Town Sound!

The Roadhouse is open 5 days a week and is just getting started with their music scene- the day manager of Neon Cowboy has a background in sound engineering and has brought his talents to the lounge, which is the perfect venue for a rocking good time. The food we had was so good- our first night we shared a cheeseburger and onion rings and sampled the seasonal cocktails which were phenomenal and festive.

The Cowboy Wedge complete with BBQ sauce

But the pineapple upside down cake was marvelous!

Service is provided by a crew who loves this little Roadhouse and is invested in making it a place for both locals and guests from afar. The invite you to relax, chill out by a roaring fire, try some steak and prime rib, and enjoy a beer or two. The ambiance is campy- kitschy- cool- authentically western and classically unforgettable.

I know I will be back to see the progress again, hopefully in summer to welcome in the new fire pits, cornhole, and endless starry nights!

Neon Cowboy Roadhouse & Hot Springs

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