Oregon’s Wine Country: Inn The Ground and Humble Spirit
Inn The Ground: a luxury bed and breakfast tucked into the rolling hills of Oregon’s wine country.
Through the ice and snow we go to the heart of Oregon wine country- Carlton to stay at a luxurious B & B set (literally) into a hill on a regenerative farm- Inn The Ground. It was my second time to the Inn, the first time was in August of 2023 for their opening media event. I was so impressed with their concept, I could not wait to come again, this time with my husband along with me. Solo travel is transformative and introspective but sharing the harvests of wine country is really how it’s done.
A warm welcome
Inn The Ground is not just a place to stay, it is a series of experiences and adventures centered around their regenerative farm and the incredible food, beverage, and wellness it creates. It is a philosophy of interconnection.
Every detail of Inn The Ground is carefully selected to create a gorgeous atmosphere
The accommodations are calming and expertly appointed. Set in a hillside overlooking the farm- the first floor features sitting areas, a breakfast nook, fireplaces, and library. Each area faces the pastures and waterways on the farm.
The rooms are spacious and comfortable
The rooms are spacious and laid out for comfort and style. The design reflects the rolling hillsides, misty mornings, and dreamy starlight nights. There is a king size bed and a queen sleeper sofa in each suite.
Art adorns the walls
Room for lounging, reading, playing guitar and daydreaming. We were greeted with the first of many Oregon made delights- Moonstruck Chocolate, hazelnuts, and peppered beef sticks from Source Farms- a part of the Inn The Ground’s farm family.
Locally sourced snacks upon arrival
Although our main attraction would be to visit Humble Spirit: Inn The Ground’s very own Farm to Table restaurant in McMinnville, our first night was without plans. So we decided to head into Carlton to see what we could find.
Heading out for an evening in Carlton
I’ve been on my own “regenerative” kick, revisiting old trends in my own closet and shopping vintage and small creators. This time I decided to pack pieces to wear that I inherited from my grandmothers. This night I chose a cardigan from the 1950’s and pearls from the 1970’s. One piece of the past from each branch of my family- with my own sparkling addition!
French 75 at French Bistro Cuvee’
We found Cuvee’ in Carlton, a french bistro that is voted one of the 10 best restaurants in the Portland area on Open Table. I am convinced that this part of Oregon has THE BEST FOOD in the state. Is it a secret? I don’t think so- the table next to us had flown in from another state just to visit this fertile and delicious region of Oregon.
Fresh oregon seafood crepe
Pre Fixe menus are quite popular in this area and I love that! I feel like it takes the pressure off of the moment and allows for some more adventurous tastings. It’s also great for sharing!
Pureed squash soup
The food at Cuvee was like a dream- soft, floaty and aromatic. Decadent but not overdone, refined but not stuffy. Romantic but fun!
Escargot! A bucket list food for me.
I was happy to cross something off my food bucket list that I’d wanted to try since I was a kid- escargot. As a seafood connoisseur I make the joke that I love “sea bugs”. Although snails are technically a gastropod- they remind me of shrimp, substitute any hint of fish with a mushroomy tang. Earthy and bite size, would try again. Frog legs next?
Poisson du Jour: fresh Oregon caught lingcod
My entree was locally sourced lingcod. I cannot say no to anything right off the Oregon Coast. Carlton is just 58 miles from the shore and so it’s flooded with fresh fish on the daily. This truly is the epicenter for all things Oregon produced.
Carlton Christmas lights in Ladd Park
After dinner we took a stroll through Ladd Park which is decorated in lights each Christmas. This is a free display that added a truly magical send off to our first night in wine country.
Wine country during the Holidays is festive and bright
Downtown Carlton is just 5.5 miles from Inn The Ground so it was just a zip home up to our hillside retreat.
The last full moon of the year at Inn The Ground
The charming accommodations were a delightful sleepover without a peep but baaing sheep at daybreak.
Waking up to the view of sheep and misty, rolling hills.
Our room has a patio that overlooks the countryside which is painted with muted grays and greens in mid December. There is a spring just beyond the trees, part of the 8 mile trail system available to guests.
Sipping coffee in my “White Christmas” jammies.
We spent the morning sipping coffee from the in room Ratio coffee maker. A world class system that offers perfect pour overs without any of the guess work. Just one of the little luxurious details that create an ambiance of comfort.
Ratio coffee, a perfect pour over system.
One of the perks of Inn The Ground is the farm breakfast provided each and every morning. Their commitment to a sense of place means sourcing nutrient dense foods with locally sourced ingredients made with fine dining techniques and preparation.
Farm breakfast is provided each morning.
Breakfast is no exception, simply prepared and yet without anything left out. Greek yogurt parfaits, sweet and savory scones and croissants, muffins, and fresh fruits and berries adorn the buffet.
Greek yogurt parfaits
Starting your day on a hill on a farm, dispersed light illuminating a tea and coffee bar will set the tone for an exciting day in wine country.
Coffee and tea bar
Scones and croissants
The hot portion of the farm breakfast is prepared to order and starts with green or orange juice.
Fresh pressed fruit and vegetable juice and house made hot sauce
Each time I’ve had this breakfast I have marveled at the light fluffiness of the farm eggs. Paired with some of the creamiest butter and local jam, the Source Farm sausage was all the fuel we needed to get up and go.
Hot breakfast is farm eggs and sausage
I’ve found in all my travels it is hard to decide between lounging about restoring my mind in gorgeous setting such as these or going out to see what I can see.
A tranquil breakfast nook
There are many places to gather at Inn The Ground. Although a romantic retreat was the pace of this trip it would be twice as fun to share these spaces with more friends.
Lounge room available for reading or movies
Although, with the tranquil surroundings and this library it could be easy to sit and write on my novel or edit photos into infinity.
Library, a perfect spot to write
So many peaceful nooks and spaces, not even mentioning the oasis of our room, it was hard not to stay here all day.
Hazelnuts by the fire
Still, there was much to be done- those wineries and antique stores won’t visit themselves so off we went!
I love this big mirror at Inn The Ground
As we made our way through Carlton in the daylight we spotted The Source Farms Bull- a nod to their grass fed, Non- gmo, regenerative and sustainable practices! Things I can fully agree with.
The Tabula Rosa bull in Carlton
Our destination was Dundee to visit Duck Pond Cellars and Ransom Spirits. We were on a hunt for a special bourbon to gift my Father In Law for Christmas. You can taste wine, spirits, mocktails and more in their speak easy!
Ransom Spirits tasting, part of the Whiskey trail
They are also a part of the Wine Country Whiskey Trail- a passport style adventure that will take you to more Oregon produced goodness hidden in speakeasies all along wine country.
These critically acclaimed spirits are hand produced, no robots, in Sheridan, Oregon. I have worked with this brand several times and stand by their products as one of Oregon’s best.
Duck Pond Cellars has over 30 years of production behind them and is a rich part of the Willamette Valley. You may have heard they changed names for a brief moment but are now in the process of changing it back to the name we know and love. This lead to 144 dollar cases of “mystery” wine. So, if you are a family member and are reading this blog you know now that you’ll be receiving a fabulous bottle of wine this holiday season.
Ransom, no robots here.
After all the hard work of “sampling presents” it was off to Lafayette to visit Oregon’s largest antique mall. I’d heard of The Lafayette Schoolhouse Antique Mall but I wasn’t quite prepared to lose several hours here, with almost no notice of time.
Browsing the largest antique mall in Oregon
This 3 story 1912 schoolhouse is filled with over 100 vendors and some of the best collections of Oregon treasures I have ever found.
I have always had a pension for the old and forgotten but as I traverse my own path to “the other side of 40” I find that I really ONLY like things that are quality made. You won’t find the type of materials and styles in fast fashion that are still alive in antique malls.
A pair of 1970’s Sawyer oars! Oregon made
I also love to get a hint of nostalgia which both feels good and deeply melancholy for me at the same time. My brain lights up when I see a long lost memory staring back at me on a shelf. I always see items from my grandparents home, which reminds me that most of the generations that raised me are or will soon be gone. Life is fleeting, these items remind of the temporary nature of- nature, which we are all a part of.
Who remembers these Oregonian newspaper holders? My grandma has this print in her house.
I’ve also seen many historic buildings lost in Oregon. I always try to stop, support, and learn about the places that used to be- the Willamette Valley is home to farms and barns that are nearly disintegrated into the landscape. My grandparents had a farm in the West Hills of Salem that is now a subdivision so supporting local producers is high on my list!
Bozo the clown is from Oregon- you can see his childhood home in Jacksonville
The antique mall brought me joy and sorrow and when I smelled a rack of clothing that smelled exactly like my great grandmother who crossed that bridge one year ago at 98- it was time to go.
One must lighten the mood when on the nostalgia trail so back to Carlton it was- to stop into the festive and bright- Blind Pig!
A smash burger at The Blind Pig
Described as “One part renegade, two parts humble, three parts hush hush” this food truck turned brick and mortar restaurant is the type of place you have to see to feel (and believe). Nuff said.
Inn The Ground, these rooms are perfect for getting ready for a night out!
Again, it was 5 miles back to Inn The Ground to freshen up for an evening in McMinnville. Their vanity space is perfect for quick changes, with lots of counter space and drawers and cabinets for all your items. The lighting is variable and both invitingly warm and set up with LEDS to get you hair and makeup perfect.
Spa showers
I always rate a stay by its bathroom and shower. A pisces introvert with an extroverted travel life requires a lot of downtime in water.
Inn The Ground has a spa style shower with extra large towels and soft, roomy bathrobes.
Obligatory restroom picture, because travelers wants to know.
It was a quick change over into the evenin'g’s apparel- holiday themed for a santa visit via helicopter at Evergreen Aviation and Space Museum.
Ready to go see Santa
Evergreen is one of my favorite museums in the State of Oregon. This expansive museum showcases an impressive collection of aircraft, spacecraft, and aviation-related exhibits, celebrating both the history of flight and the exploration of space. One of the museum’s most iconic features is the Spruce Goose, the massive H-4 Hercules, a legendary aircraft built by Howard Hughes.
U.S. Navy Blue Angels at Evergreen Aviation and Space Museum
This particular evening Santa was set to arrive in Helicopter right at sunset. We arrived a few minutes early to grab a photo with one of the U.S. Navy’s Blue Angels Boeing F/A-18 Super Hornets. The Blue Angels hold a special place in my heart, when I was little my dad and I would climb onto the roof of our house to watch them flyover for the Oregon International Air Show.
They are set to return to Oregon in August of 2026.
Santa arrived by helicopter
Santa arrived just on time and then the aircraft section of the museum was opened for visitors.
The Spruce Goose!
Each of the planes are decorated by different families in the community. It was amazing to see them all lit up.
Each aircraft is decorated by a local family or business
I really liked the energy of this space in low light, it was so calm. So many holiday events can be high keyed and overstimulating but this space has the opposite feel. I always recommend Evergreen as an accessible outing because it is wheelchair accessible, there are plaques to read, it is child friendly, and there are many places to sit.
Dear Santa, a jeep would be nice.
We have some family history displayed here as well, though it is on the space side of the museum. Dave’s grandfather worked on two Apollo missions and both have exhibits at Evergreen.
wink wink
My Grandfather and his brother, my great uncle, served in WWII and I grew up with their stories, visiting The Band Of Brothers, learning the reasons they stood for liberty in America. They both left for the war from Forest Grove, Oregon and came home to run become entrepreneurs with their own businesses and families here.
Much of the history in this building is hard to swallow and yet we see stout hearted innovation and resilience. We witness strength in unity through adversity.
I have never set foot here without speaking to a Docent who has their heart deeply rooted in the story of America. It is always an honor to share in their memory and to honor the sacrifices made for the greater good.
This is a Christmas Vacation!
The main event was still waiting for us in Downtown Mac, which was festively trimmed and alive with the holiday spirit.
Downtown McMinnville looking festive!
Humble Spirit is my number one recommended restaurant in all of Oregon and I don’t say that lightly.
Here is why. Simply put I love the food of Oregon, I believe that there is NO better bounty of flavors and variety than from this (humble) state.
We have wine and spirits, fresh caught seafood, fruits both on vine and branch, sustainable and thoughtfully grown meats and poultry, foraged delights from forest to desert, designer doughs, herbs and spices- all harvested within an hour of this cozy brick lined restaurant.
An incredible farm to restaurant meal at Humble Spirit
Humble Spirit is the perfect representation of what Oregon offers on a sustainable and supportive scale. It is a massive offering of all that Oregon provides lovingly crafted from tip to tail.
Signature cocktails
Oregon wine perfectly paired to our Oregon entrees
Brenna O’ Malley is the creativity behind the cocktail and wine menu at Humble Spirit. I have never visited without her expert level of knowledge adding to our culinary experience. She helps us select the perfect (Oregon) wine to compliment our meal. You’ll notice there are a few Ransom spirit cocktails on the menu as well.
Roasted hazelnuts with pork belly and crispy herbs
Old timers still call them Filbert’s and younger generations know them as Hazelnuts- Oregon is the leading producer of hazelnuts in the United States, and the state's climate and soil make it particularly well-suited for growing these nuts. They are the offical nut of the state.
That is why I HAVE to begin every meal at Humble Spirit with their roasted hazelnuts with pork belly, sprinkled with crispy herbs and sea salt.
I start and end each meal here the same. Even though I’m not particularly a creature of habit, the dishes are the kind you think of many months later- so they are things I CRAVE!
The perfect Caesar
I’ve tried Caesar salads in nearly every restaurant I’ve ever visited and served countless versions when I worked in food and beverage myself.
There are a few things that come together to create the perfect Caesar:
Crispy greens- this version uses Chicory which are closely related to lettuce but have a hardier crunch.
The perfect cheese- that holds its bite while still melting in your mouth. That blend is found in Roundbale- a Pacific Northwest original parmesan that uses whole milk.
Dressing that is creamy enough to cling to each bite without being soggy, achieved with a coddled egg.
AND the secret touch, crunched up croutons so that the herbed texture is evenly distributed across the salad.
Voila- I could honestly end the meal here but I digress (into heavenly culinary bliss)…
Roasted farm chicken
At their core, Humble Spirit is a farm with a restaurant- artful cuisine served with a sense of humor. Having visited the farm I see the grounds and their colors reflected in each dish. I can taste the smell of the air where I slept. The moisture in the air explodes from each bite of vegetable. These dishes ARE Oregon.
Beet Tartare and Creme Fraiche
I cannot resist a roasted chicken. For my 9th birthday, I asked for a chicken party. My grandfather had a broasted chicken restaurant. If chicken is well done in a restaurant, believe me, every other dish will follow suite.
Is the skin crispy but the meat moist and tender? Is there char that is not overbearing? Will I have to cut it with a knife or will it fall off the bone with the slightest pressure?
Every answer is the right one on this dish laid upon fermented nardello and cracked barley.
New York Strip
Dave chose the evenings special and none too soon as it was the last New York Strip in house, for obvious reasons. I can only say this dish is classically popular and without fault.
The Tabula Rosa Farm Oreo- you’ll never forget these.
Now, I must tell you why I end each meal at Humble Spirit in the exact same way- with my favorite dessert from childhood reimagined.
The Tabula Rosa Farm Oreo! These are addictive, fun, and so good dipped in some of the best milk you’ll ever taste.
They are also a function of working to reduce waste from their farm- the filling is a byproduct of producing forest pastured hogs; it’s lard, whipped with sugar and vanilla.
The first time I visited Humble Spirit I was much too full for dessert, as you can imagine can easily happen here. Our server INSISTED we take a few of these cookies to go.
I found them in the middle of the night and my life has not been the same since.
There is no better cookie, anywhere.
Humble Spirit NYE Menu
So now that I have declared Humble Spirit as my number one pick across Oregon I can share with you their upcoming New Year’s Eve menu.
It is a nod to all things Oregon, and you can add caviar! This mermaid can’t think of a better way to TOP off the year and start 2025.
Lounging at Inn The Ground
Our stay at Inn The Ground was a true celebration of some of the best Oregon can offer. It is the epicenter of our farming community and the gateway to our own “French countryside”.
Source Farms tour in August
Farm tours are available as part of your stay. I highly recommend connecting to your food source and getting closer to how the things we consume are made.
When we can see and feel how the foods we see are grown and produced it helps us remember that we are a part of nature.
Connect to your food source, connect to life.
So much is lost today in the fast pace of life but this is real, tangible and nourishing.
Regenerative farming is an agricultural approach that goes beyond sustainability by focusing on restoring and enhancing the health of soil, ecosystems, and biodiversity. Unlike conventional farming practices, which often prioritize yield and efficiency, regenerative farming seeks to build soil fertility, increase water retention, and reduce the need for synthetic inputs like fertilizers and pesticides.
Regenerative farming is good for us all
Key practices include cover cropping, no-till farming, rotational grazing, and the use of compost to enrich the soil. These methods work in harmony with nature to regenerate soil health, improve carbon sequestration, and foster biodiversity, ultimately creating a more resilient and sustainable food system.
Spend a little time connecting to nature
By emphasizing the long-term vitality of the land, regenerative farming not only helps mitigate climate change by storing carbon but also promotes the overall health of ecosystems, leading to healthier food, cleaner water, and more vibrant rural landscapes.
Farm breakfast in summer at Inn The Ground
The Ground Ecosystem: Inn The Ground, Source Farms, Tabula Rosa Farms, Humble Spirit as well Grounded Body and Stillwater have come together to create incredible things for Oregon.
The best view
Grounded Body is a gym/ pickle ball and tennis court open to the public located a few minutes from Inn The Ground.
Whole trout at Humble Spirit
Private chef dinners featuring ingredients sourced from their farm are available.
I love how the dishes at Humble Spirit look and taste like the farms the ingredients come from
Wine tours, hiking trails, and yoga are provided as part of the guest experiences.
Sit for a while
This is certainly an unforgettable and world class experience that will bring you a sense of connection to Oregon.